Happier in a Hackmore?

An Olympic eventer tells you what you need to know if you’re considering riding sans bit.

When riders see me compete my Olympic and World Equestrian Games partner Poggio II (Pogi) in the cross-country and show-jumping phases of eventing using a hackamore, they often ask me about this type of bridle.

Hackamores—bitless bridles with metal shanks connecting the cheekpieces to the reins—work on different pressure points than do bridles with bits. When you pull on the reins, the shanks of the hackamore rotate, putting pressure on both the nosepiece and the curb chain or strap that connects the shanks under the horse’s chin. This leverage also increases the pressure on his poll. The shanks themselves affect the sensitive areas below his cheekbones. Depending on the type of hackamore used and the way it is fitted, this can be as severe a device as a strong bit. But, in the right hands, it can also be very kind and forgiving.

I’ve found that hackamores are best suited to a very specific type of horse: one that can be strong in the bridle, but also very sensitive in his mouth. Pogi is just such a horse. He can be very strong on cross-country and in the show-jumping arena, but the more severe the bit I use, the more he fusses with his head and worries about my hands. The hackamore eliminates this worry for him, while still giving me enough control in front of the jumps.

Another great use for a hackamore is if a horse develops a sore on a corner of his mouth. Riding him for a few days in a hackamore will give the sore a chance to heal without any additional irritation.

When you use a hackamore, you generally maintain much lighter pressure—or no pressure at all—on the reins, compared to the contact you’d maintain with a bitted bridle. So, horses that need rein support on the approach to jumps will not go well in a hackamore. Green horses, for instance, often need to feel a steady connection between the rider’s legs and hands to stay straight to the fences. Spooky horses, too, often lose confidence when the contact is dropped in front of a jump.

Another type of horse that won’t go well in a hackamore is one that tends to lean on your hands. It’s very hard to “pick a horse up” (i.e., get him off of his forehand) with a hackamore, because pulling more strongly on the reins encourages him to overflex his neck and lower his head. To be sure that this wouldn’t be a problem with Pogi, I first had to teach him to carry himself without leaning on the bit. I also worked with two bit manufacturers, Myler Bits and Mikmar Bit Company, to design a special hybrid bridle for cross-country. It works primarily as a hackamore, but also has a smooth, mild bit that I can resort to using toward the end of a long course if I need help getting him off his forehand.

There is a wide variety of hackamores on the market, both in Western and English styles. Some of the more severe ones have nosepieces made of hard plastic or even chains. I only recommend ones that have a soft leather nosepiece, lined with fleece. Also, the longer the shank you use, the more severe the hackamore’s action. I use shanks that are no longer than about 3 or 4 inches. I also use a leather curb strap at home, which is much milder than a regular chain—it’s so gentle, I feel as if I’m riding with just a halter. I switch to a normal curb chain at shows for the added control it provides.

How you fit a hackamore can affect its severity as well. Adjusting the cheekpieces fairly short can push the tops of the shanks against the sensitive area around your horse’s cheekbones. To minimize this pressure, adjust the shanks so they sit about 3/4 inch below the bottom edge of his cheekbone. Be careful not to position the nosepiece too low on his nose, either, where it can press on the soft cartilage of his nasal passages and interfere with his breathing. Adjust it so it sits just above the upper edge of the soft portion of his nostrils.

Although it may sound gentler, I’ve found that a loosely fitted curb chain (which makes the entire hackamore looser) can result in rougher contact. When the curb chain is loose, the nosepiece doesn’t engage right away when you pull on the reins. This makes it harder to gauge when the contact will come into play, so it’s easy to accidentally overdo your rein aids. A loose hackamore also shifts around the horse’s nose, making it less effective and more likely to pull the cheekpieces against his eyes. I prefer a snugger curb chain fit, where you can fit just one finger between it and his jaw. This allows you to feel the “contact” (the nosepiece engaging) immediately when you pick up the reins, so it’s easier to be light with your aids.

Riding a horse with a hackamore is a very different skill than riding with a bit, particularly when it comes to steering. All turns must be done using both reins—if you pull on just one rein, the hackamore will slide around your horse’ nose. (I tell my students to imagine they’re pushing a wheelbarrow. If you let go of one handle, the wheelbarrow falls over.) In the air over a fence, on the other hand, it’s important to treat the hackamore just as you would a bit, being careful not to catch him in the “mouth.” Any rein interference over jumps, whether it’s through a bit or a hackamore, can affect your horse’s confidence.

The best thing you can do when contemplating using a hackamore is to consult a knowledgeable trainer. She can tell you whether this device is suitable for your horse, help you select the type that would be best for him, show you how to fit it properly and offer guidance as you learn how to ride with it.

Finally, if you do decide to try using a hackamore, be aware that not all disciplines allow them in competition. (In eventing, for example, hackamores are allowed in the cross-country and show-jumping phases, but not in dressage.) So check the rule book for your discipline or breed association before planning to show your horse in a hackamore.

PHOTO CAPTION
Page 103 Inset photo
A close-up of a mechanical hackamore (Metalab Fleece Hackamore shown).