DRESSING FOR DRESSAGE

Four judges explain what to wear in the show arena.

What am I going to wear? You spend a lot of time preparing your horse for a show, but don’t forget you also need to think about your own turnout. Whether this is your first show season at Introductory Level or you’re planning your first foray into the international FEI (Fédération Equestre Internationale) levels, the first thing you need to do is check the U.S. Equestrian Federation (USEF) Rule Book. The dress code for Training through Fourth Levels “is a short riding coat of conservative color, with tie, choker or stock tie, white or light-colored breeches or jodhpurs, boots or jodhpur boots, a hunt cap or riding hat with a hard shell, derby or top hat. A cutaway coat (modified tailcoat) with short tails is permitted.” Half chaps, gaiters and/or leggings are not allowed, and gloves of conservative color are recommended. The dress code for riders entering the FEI tests is “a dark tailcoat with top hat, or a dark jacket with a bowler hat or hunt cap, and white or light colored breeches, stock or tie, gloves, and black riding boots. Spurs are mandatory for FEI tests.” With these basics in mind, four top judges—Axel Steiner, Anne Gribbons, Janet Foy and Alexandra (Sandy) Howard—were queried for their views on dressing for dressage.

Does a Competitor’s Dress Affect the Score?
The short answer is, no. Anne Gribbons, an FEI “O” judge, says, “Dress would not affect a rider’s score from me. I focus on the horse’s performance much more than the outfit the rider is wearing, unless something is shockingly different or against the rules. But, overall neatness is important and can’t be emphasized enough.” For first-time competitors wanting to dress their best for their debut down centerline, she gives these tips: “First, read the rules so you aren’t wearing chaps, the wrong coat or the wrong hat. Make sure you’re within the regulations, or you’ll be eliminated. You don’t need to wear brand-name clothes. Just have them fit well and be clean and neat. They don’t need to be the most expensive or the most fashionable. It’s the performance that counts—you won’t get one extra point if the horse isn’t going well.” Gribbons also says to wear boots that are fitted high on the outside to make the leg look longer and a black coat that fits properly with a plain lining to complement the color of your horse (no prints or wild colors). “Be sure your breeches fit,” she says. “Wear a helmet that meets the American Society for Testing Materials (ASTM) standards to prove that your head is more important than your hair. Your stock tie should have enough puff at the neck to fill in the neckline [of the jacket].” Axel Steiner, also an FEI “O” judge, adds, “It is my experience that a rider who has paid attention to the details of turnout often pays more attention to the details of a test, i.e., the use of corners, being exact at the letters, etc.” So, a rider who feels well dressed tends to be more self-assured and confident, which translates into a better performance. For someone just sticking their toes into the dressage waters for the first time, he recommends “being as correct as possible without going overboard.” USEF “S” judge Sandy Howard agrees. “Most competitors who are correct in their schooling and test riding are usually correct in their turnout. Fashion comes into play only to the extent that well-fitted clothes make the rider look more attractive. I might notice some aspect of clothing and think that it looks good (or not) on the rider wearing it, but it would have no bearing on the score.”

Can a Competitor Add Style?
“Yes,” says Janet Foy, a USEF “S” and FEI “I” judge. “It is OK to be fashionable as long as the look doesn’t detract from the performance. I see many baggy coats, too-long sleeves, etc. A bit of tailoring can really make the rider look more elegant.” Foy advises wearing a jacket that fits your current figure. “If you lose or gain weight, be sure to have your attire adjusted properly to fit the new you,” she says. The fabric and fit of the jacket are more important than the color. “Be sure to take your jacket off right after your ride and hang it up. A little wet sponging in the afternoon will help too. Some wool in the fabric content helps the jacket hold its shape, and it doesn’t get shiny from dry cleaning. Make sure the sleeves aren’t too long or short. We shouldn’t see any bare skin between the glove and the jacket.” When having your jacket fitted, she says to put your arms in riding position and wear your gloves so the tailor can get the fit exactly right. Also, make sure the jacket is long enough in back. “Be at the ring a bit early, try to relax and have a good time. But whatever happens, do not try new clothing or tack for the first time at a show. That’s a sure-fire recipe for disaster.” Howard says that if someone rides really well, he or she may wear something a bit different. “But if you have less than an ideal position, you’d do well not to draw attention to that,” she says. “Stay conservative. If I had my way, I would have the white breeches taken away from the dressage look and at the national levels have the competitors wear grey breeches with dark polo shirts in the summer. They could add a fitted vest for winter. I think they would look more like athletes. Their position and posture would be easier for judges to assess, and they wouldn’t look so dirty so soon after dressing.” Classic white breeches are the tradition and look best most of the time, Gribbons says. But, she’s seen cream breeches with dark colored jackets, such as navy or dark green, that look really beautiful. If you choose to use cream, she says, be sure your stock tie, gloves and saddle pad are the same color. Don’t mix white into the equation. “The cream look is elegant when it’s done properly.” Foy soaks her gloves, stock tie, saddle pad and breeches in tea so they will all match. But, she says to avoid using cream-colored clothes on a grey horse. For years, the FEI Dressage Committee has been talking about allowing more colors (other than black and navy) at the FEI levels. Meanwhile, conservative dark grey, forest green and chocolate brown colors are making their way into the national-level dressage court.

How Much Bling Is Permissible?
Gribbons doesn’t mind if the browband sparkles, complementing the horse’s color. “I’ve seen some beautiful beaded browbands that show off the horse,” she says. “When the rider is really good, a little bling can enhance the ride. When the rider isn’t good, it almost becomes comical.” She says to be careful with glitter—it’s not allowed in the mane and tail of a dressage horse. “Always work more on your performance than your outfit,” she advises. “You don’t want to look silly or circus-y.” Foy’s opinion is that bling is best when it stays in Hollywood. She finds dangling earrings distracting, as are white bun covers with lots of rhinestones. “Try to keep the bling to the browband and/or a nice stock pin. I think the new fabrics for stock ties are gorgeous and I love the satin patterns—elegant!” Both Foy and Howard say that sparkles on gloves are really distracting and, if you choose to go that route, you’d better have fabulous hands. Steiner agrees that a little sparkle is fine, but when it draws attention away from the horse, then it’s too much.

Gloves—White or Black?
White gloves are a must at FEI and are fine for lower levels if you have quiet hands, says Foy. “If your hands are a bit bouncy, then wear black for sure. No bare hands—they give the rider an unfinished look.” Howard advises wearing white gloves, as black ones could indicate to the judge that the rider usually rides hunters. Steiner says both are OK, but he prefers white. In his opinion, neither will hide bad hands. “I’ve always wondered why we use white gloves,” says Gribbons. “They certainly emphasize the rider’s hands, so if they’re moving too much, they’re noticeable. I don’t think black gloves look bad. I’ve ridden in black gloves myself, but the judge made a comment on my score sheet. The bottom line is, if the ride is good, I probably wouldn’t notice if the rider was wearing white or black.”

Headgear & the Total Look
The USEF Rule Book states, “Riders at all levels of competition must wear one of the following: A hunt cap or riding hat with a hard shell, derby or top hat, military/police cap or hat, or protective headgear. Any exhibitor may wear protective headgear at any level of competition without penalty from the judge.” So is it inappropriate for a rider at First, Second or Third Level to wear a top hat? Howard prefers all riders wear ASTM approved headgear. She prefers they save the top hat for the FEI levels. Steiner’s preference is hunt caps at lower levels. Foy says, “If it’s within the rules, then choose the hat you want.” Gribbons thinks that it’s fine for adults to wear a top hat, but Juniors and Young Riders should wear a hunt cap. “It’s a nicer look for them. Of course, I don’t mind at all if Juniors—or anyone for that matter—wear safety helmets.” The judges say, look neat, clean and polished overall. The turnout of the horse catches their eyes more than that of the rider. Everything should fit and be in place. It’s important to have all the loose ends of your bridle and girth tucked into their keepers. Have a clean saddle pad for each day of the show. Be sure the pad is proportionate to the size of your horse. Some are just too huge and hide your equine partner. “Show off your magnificent horse and his performance,” Gribbons advises. “Remember,” says Steiner, “your horse is the star.”